Turbulence and water surface elevation measurements were carried out in the swash zone which was induced by plunging and collapsing breakers in a wave flume. Three different period regular waves were generated on a 1r10 smooth impermeable concrete beach and the water surface elevations were collected by a number of wave gauges and a run-up meter lying on the bottom. Velocity measurements were carried out by a Laser Doppler velocimeter system, at spatial steps of 1 mm from the bottom, along three vertical sections in the swash zone. The data have been used to describe the wave front dynamics, to derive the length and velocity macro and micro scales and the Eulerian frequency spectrum. In some points, it shows a double structure. The results add to and expand on similar results obtained by other researchers in the surf zone.

Turbulence experiments in the swash zone / PETTI M.; LONGO S.. - In: COASTAL ENGINEERING. - ISSN 0378-3839. - 43:1(2001), pp. 1-24. [10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00068-5]

Turbulence experiments in the swash zone

LONGO, Sandro Giovanni
2001

Abstract

Turbulence and water surface elevation measurements were carried out in the swash zone which was induced by plunging and collapsing breakers in a wave flume. Three different period regular waves were generated on a 1r10 smooth impermeable concrete beach and the water surface elevations were collected by a number of wave gauges and a run-up meter lying on the bottom. Velocity measurements were carried out by a Laser Doppler velocimeter system, at spatial steps of 1 mm from the bottom, along three vertical sections in the swash zone. The data have been used to describe the wave front dynamics, to derive the length and velocity macro and micro scales and the Eulerian frequency spectrum. In some points, it shows a double structure. The results add to and expand on similar results obtained by other researchers in the surf zone.
Turbulence experiments in the swash zone / PETTI M.; LONGO S.. - In: COASTAL ENGINEERING. - ISSN 0378-3839. - 43:1(2001), pp. 1-24. [10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00068-5]
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: http://hdl.handle.net/11381/1455583
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